Thursday, July 14, 2016

Midyear Strategies to Cut Your 2016 Tax Bill



The pain of tax-return time should be subsiding, and it’s still months before you need to start thinking about year-end maneuvering to give yourself the upper hand over Uncle Sam.

But rather than dream of a lazy summertime snooze in a hammock, get revved up about the financial rewards you can reap with some down-and-dirty tax planning.


Close The Books On 2015

First things first: If you filed for an extension to complete your 2015 tax return, shake off the notion that you’ll wait until mid-October to finish the job. The extended deadline this year is October 17 because the 15th falls on a Saturday, but that’s no reason to procrastinate. By now, you should have received late K-1s showing partnership income as well as any corrected 1099s. No more excuses.

The IRS’s free-file program, which gives taxpayers free access to commercial return-preparation software, is still available for 2015 returns. If your adjusted gross income is $62,000 or less, check it out at www.irs.gov.
If you have a refund coming, the sooner you file, the quicker you’ll get your money. If you owe more than you paid with your extension request, settling the debt now will limit the interest and penalties demanded by the IRS.

Before you pay any failure to file or failure to pay penalty, check to see if you qualify for “first-time abatement” relief. The IRS can waive the penalties if you filed and paid on time for the previous three years and have paid, or arranged to pay, the taxes due for 2015.

Speaking of your 2015 return, consider whether the bottom line is sending an action memo to you. If you got a big refund, maybe you should adjust your withholding. The average refund so far this year is $2,732, just a bit above last year’s. That’s about $225 a month. If your financial situation is similar, you could be racking up a big refund for next spring.


Boost Retirement Savings


The maximum contribution for 401(k) and 403(b) plans remains the same as last year: $24,000 for those age 50 and older at the end of the year and $18,000 for younger workers. If you’re not maxing out, consider whether you can afford to save more.

If you opt for a traditional, pretax account, boosting your contribution won’t put a dollar-for-dollar dent in your take-home pay. If you’re in the 28% bracket, for example, adding an extra $500 a month to your 401(k) will cut your take-home by just $360.

If your company offers the Roth option, contributing after-tax dollars would cost you the full $500 in this example . . . but the payoff would be tax-free withdrawals of both contributions and earnings in retirement.

If you’re at the limit for your company plan, don’t forget that you can contribute to an IRA as long as you’re still working. You can contribute $6,500 ($5,500 if you’re under 50) to either a traditional or Roth IRA, or a combination of the two.

Contributions to traditional accounts are fully or partially deductible, unless you’re covered by a company plan and your adjusted gross income exceeds $71,000 on a single return or $118,000 on a joint return. Note, though, that deposits to traditional IRAs are not permitted beginning in the year you turn age 70 1/2.

There are no age restrictions for nondeductible contributions to Roth IRAs, but there are income limits. The right to contribute to a Roth is phased out as income rises between $117,000 and $132,000 on a single return and from $184,000 to $194,000 on a joint return.

Although you generally must have earned income to contribute to an IRA, if your spouse isn’t working, you can make a deposit to a spousal IRA for him or her, as long as you have enough income to cover the contribution.


Deal with Required Minimum Distributions


The first baby boomers reach age 70 this year, which means hundreds of thousands more IRA owners will need to take required minimum distributions for 2016. Regardless of whether it’s your first distribution or not, the RMD is based on the balance in your IRAs at the end of 2015. The total is divided by a factor provided by the IRS in Publication 590-B. (For most IRA owners, the divisor is 27.4 for someone who turns 70 this year, for example, and 18.7 for someone who turns 80.)

The later in the year you take your required payout, the longer your money gets to grow in the tax-sheltered environment. If 2016 will be your first RMD, you can postpone the withdrawal to as late as April 1 of next year; otherwise, December 31 is the deadline. If you can choose between this year and next, consider your expected tax brackets in each year and how adding the RMD to your taxable income might affect the taxation of your Social Security benefits and your Medicare premiums.

Two points about RMDs: First, you don’t have to spend the money; you can transfer it to a taxable account. Second, you can always take more than the RMD if you need to.

Or you can give it away. Congress has made permanent the provision that permits IRA owners age 70 and older to transfer up to $100,000 from their IRA directly to a charity.

Such transfers count as your RMD, but the money does not show up in your taxable income. In the past, such gifts were usually made at year-end because Congress habitually let this break lapse and revived it at the end of the year. Now, you don’t have to wait. If such generosity is in your plans, contact the charity to arrange the gift.

Make The Most Of Generosity

Giving away an RMD isn’t the only potentially savvy way to make a donation. If you are planning a significant gift to your church, synagogue, alma mater or other charity, don’t automatically reach for your checkbook. Turn to your portfolio instead.

The law has a special rule to encourage gifts of appreciated property, such as stocks, mutual fund shares or real estate. As long as you have owned the asset for more than a year, you can deduct its full market value rather than just what you paid for it. And neither you nor the charity have to pay tax on the appreciation while you owned it.

Because it can take a while to arrange for the transfer of ownership, now is a better time to plan such gifts than as part of a year-end tax-planning frenzy. (Never give away property that has declined in value. You’re better off selling, claiming the capital loss on your tax return and then donating the proceeds of the sale for your charitable write-off.)

Make Gifts To The Family

You can give up to $14,000 this year to any number of individuals without having to worry about the federal gift tax. If you and your spouse join in the gift, the limit rises to $28,000 per person . . . or $56,000 to a couple. If you are planning significant gifts to children or grandchildren, consider using appreciated assets rather than cash.

Let’s say you and your husband want to give your son and his wife $50,000 for the down payment on a house. Because that’s under $56,000, you wouldn’t even have to file a gift tax return. But instead of cash, let’s say you give the children $50,000 worth of stock that you paid just $30,000 for years ago. If you sold the stock, you’d owe capital-gains tax on $20,000.

But by giving the shares away, you also give away that tax bill. Your tax basis transfers to the children and, if they’re in a lower tax bracket when they sell the shares, the extended family saves some money on the $20,000 profit. If the children are in the 10% or 15% bracket, in fact, at least part of the gain would be taxed at 0%.

Beware, though, that the kiddie tax can put the kibosh on these savings if you’re making gifts to grandchildren. For children under age 19 (or under 24 if they are full-time students), investment income in excess of $2,100 this year will be taxed at their parents’ rate, not their own.

Move To A New State?


If this summer brings a move to a new state, brace yourself for a slew of tax changes. Sure, Uncle Sam’s rulebook stays the same, but state income, sales and property taxes vary widely. Differences can be particularly surprising when it comes to how states tax retirement income and special property tax breaks for retirees.

Determining Your Home's Tax Basis


Your tax basis in your home will be a key factor in calculating your tax gain or loss when you sell your home.

If you're a homeowner, "basis" is a word you should understand. Basis is the amount your home (or other property) is worth for tax purposes. When you sell your home, your gain (profit) or loss for tax purposes is determined by subtracting its basis on the date of sale from the sales price (plus sales expenses, such as real estate commissions). The larger your basis, the smaller your profit will be, reducing your tax liability. If you sell your home for less than its basis, you'll have a loss. However, losses incurred on the sale of a personal residence are not deductible.

One confusing thing about basis is that it can change over time. When this occurs, your basis is called "adjusted basis." To determine the amount of your basis, you begin with your starting basis and then add or subtract any required adjustments.

Cost Basis


If you’ve purchased your home, your starting point for determining the property’s basis is what you paid for it. Logically enough, this is called its cost basis. Your cost basis is the purchase price, plus certain other expenses. You use the full purchase price as your starting point, regardless of how you pay for the property—with cash or a loan. If you buy property and take over an existing mortgage, you use the amount you pay for the property, plus the amount that still must be paid on the mortgage.

Example: Jan buys her home for $60,000 cash and assumes a mortgage of $240,000 on it. The starting point for determining her basis is $300,000.

Certain fees and other expenses you pay when you buy a home are added to your basis in the property. Most of these costs should be listed on the closing statement you receive after escrow on your property closes. However, some may not be listed there, so be sure to check your records to see if you’ve made any other payments that should be added to your property’s basis. These include real estate taxes owed by the seller that you pay, settlement fees and other costs such as title insurance.


When Cost Is Not the Basis


You cannot use cost as the starting basis for a home that you received as an inheritance or gift. The basis of property you inherit is usually the property’s fair market value at the time the owner died. Thus, if you hold on to your rental property until death, your heirs will be able to resell it and pay little or no tax—the ultimate tax ­loophole.

Example: Victoria inherits her deceased parents' home. The property’s fair market value (excluding the land) is $300,000 at the time of her uncle’s death. This is Victoria’s basis. She sells the property for $310,000. Her total taxable profit on the sale is only $10,000 (her profit is the sales price minus the home's tax basis).

The basis of a home or other property you receive as a gift is its adjusted basis in the hands of the gift giver when the gift was made.

If you build your home yourself, your starting basis is the cost of construction. The cost includes the cost of materials, equipment, and labor. However, you may not add the cost of your own labor to the property’s basis. Add the interest you pay on construction loans during the construction period, but deduct interest you pay before and after construction as an operating expense.

Adjusted Basis


Your basis in property is not fixed. It changes over time to reflect the true amount of your investment. This new basis is called the adjusted basis because it reflects adjustments from your starting basis.
Reductions in Basis

Your starting basis in your home must be reduced by any items that represent a return of your cost. These include: 
  • depreciation allowed or allowable if you used part of your home for business or rental purposes 
  • the amount of any insurance or other payments you receive as the result of a casualty or theft loss 
  • gain you posed from the sale of a previous home before May 7, 1997 
  • any deductible casualty loss not covered by insurance, and 
  • any amount you receive for granting an easement. 

Increases in Basis


You must increase the basis of any property by:
  • the cost of any additions or improvements 
  • amounts spent to restore property after it is damaged or lost due to theft, fire, flood, storm, or other casualty tax credits you received after 2005 for home energy improvements 
  • the cost of extending utility service lines to the property, and 
  • legal fees relating to the property, such as the cost of defending and perfecting title. 
In addition, assessments for items that tend to increase the value of your property, such as streets and sidewalks, must be added to its basis. For example, if your city installs curbing on the street in front of your rental house, and assesses you for the cost, you must add the assessment to the basis of your property.

The most common way homeowners increase their basis is to make home improvements. Improvements include any work done that adds to the value of your home, increases its useful life, or adapts it to new uses. These include room additions, new bathrooms, decks, fencing, landscaping, wiring upgrades, walkways, driveway, kitchen upgrades, plumbing upgrades, new roofs.

However, adjusted basis does not include the cost of improvements that were later removed from the home. For example, if you installed a new chain-link fence 15 years ago and then replaced it with a redwood fence, the cost of the old fence is no longer part of your home's adjusted basis.

Example: Jane purchased her home for $200,000 and sold it ten years later for $300,000. While she owned the home, she made $50,000 worth of improvements, including a new bathroom and kitchen. These increased her basis to $250,000. She also received $10,000 in insurance payments one year to reimburse her for storm damage to the house. This payment decreased her basis to $240,000. She subtracts her $240,000 adjusted basis from the $300,000 sales price to determine her gain from the sale--$60,000.


The Least Tax-Friendly State in America

Overall Rank

State

Total Tax Burden

Overall Rank

State

Total Tax Burden

1 New York 13.12% 26 Kentucky 8.70%
2 Hawaii 11.86% 27 Arizona 8.67%
3 Maine 11.13% 27 New Mexico 8.67%
3 Vermont 11.13% 29 North Carolina 8.66%
5 Connecticut 10.91% 30 Colorado 8.49%
6 Minnesota 10.46% 31 Oregon 8.45%
7 New Jersey 10.38% 31 Washington 8.45%
8 Rhode Island 10.36% 33 Louisiana 8.43%
9 Wisconsin 10.32% 34 Nevada 8.37%
10 Illinois 10.19% 35 Georgia 8.31%
11 California 9.91% 36 South Carolina 8.03%
12 Ohio 9.48% 37 Missouri 7.90%
13 Maryland 9.38% 38 Idaho 7.87%
14 Kansas 9.32% 39 Virginia 7.80%
15 West Virginia 9.19% 40 Montana 7.71%
16 Indiana 9.18% 41 Texas 7.67%
17 Iowa 9.15% 42 Wyoming 7.62%
18 Massachusetts 9.10% 43 Alabama 7.41%
19 Arkansas 9.09% 44 Florida 7.22%
20 Mississippi 9.06% 45 Oklahoma 6.95%
21 Nebraska 9.04% 46 South Dakota 6.94%
22 Michigan 8.82% 47 New Hampshire 6.88%
23 Utah 8.80% 48 Tennessee 6.56%
24 North Dakota 8.78% 49 Delaware 5.91%
25 Pennsylvania 8.73% 50 Alaska 5.18%